During DDW Roos will show process, 'work in progress' and products through a number of developments during the past year. A hand woven tapestry called GLOOM in collaboration with Indigo specialist Blueprint Amsterdam. on saturday and teusday we will be showing the whooe process of spinning, dying and weaving the tapistry. A rug collection named Fringe in collaboration with Knots Rugs London, and Ziggy, upholstery fabrics in collaboration with Enschede Textielstad. OverDose!
This collaborative piece for the brand was introduced through Lucy Upward at Cover magazine, this brought Netherlands based Fabric Designer Roos Soetekouw to Knots Rugs attention and the team were immediately struck by the elegance of her designs. Roos’ work is characterised by an outspoken, visual story and careful detailing.
Thanks to her fashion background, she has developed a talent for selecting bold colour combinations and mixing different materials to create luxurious fabrics.
‘Fringe’, is taken from her collection of the same name, is made in 90% silk. Classic in design, the carpet speaks of pure sophistication and the Scandinavian coloration will work beautifully in the modern home. As its name suggests, the rug comes with an array of interesting fringing, with silk, linen and plaiting woven into the dyed cotton warps.
Under the YMK handmade exclusives label, Roos spent the past year developing a start to finish craft project.
A combination of the waste wool from the Friesche melkschaap is used as material, in combination with animal-friendly silk. This is a side where the silkworm can grow completely into a butterfly, and find its way out through a small incision in the cocoon.
The coats of 5 Frisian dairy sheep, are first washed by hand, and then carded (this is the loosening of the locks). After this it was spun into yarn after which it stained at least 2 nights in green soap and dyed with natural indigo, before dyeing the wool was dipped 5 times in indigo, and the silk 8 times. Finally, with a part of the threads, the weaving chain was set up and the weaving could begin.
The tapestry is the first project of the collaboration between Soetekouw and Blue Print Amsterdam. Celia Geraedts, founder of Blue Print Amsterdam is a specialist when it comes to natural dyeing with Indigo. Celia in Japan deeply immersed in the magic of indigo by learning from an indigo master there, the magic of the color indigo grabbed her, and especially the stories and characteristics and history that the indigo blue color brings.
Fascinated by the resonant indigo blue, Celia dived deeper and deeper into the art of dying with this natural dye. Roos's beautifully hand-spun yarns are layered over layer, dipped over dip in the dye bath, and intentively rinsed after the last dip. After rinsing, all the yarns were put in a vinegar after-treatment bath, which "encapsulates" the beautiful deep indigo blue color as it were.
Tapestry of Friesche melkschaap and silk
Washing the wool: 21h
Carding the wool: 54 hours
Spinning of the wool: 75 hours
Spinning of the silk: 13h
Dyeing the wool: 34 hours (so far)
Dyeing the silk: 15 hours (so far)
Enschede Textielstad is a sustainable industrial weaving mill in the Netherlands that produces garment and interior textiles. All fabrics are produced with recycled yarns, such as recycled denim, recycled workwear and upcycled cotton.
None of our fabrics are dyed, the fabric gets its color from the recycled content
in the yarns. We lower our environmental impact even more by a production- on-demand model, which prevents us from producing waste.
Enschede Textielstad and Roos Soetekouw collaborated to make a festive, colourful upholstery collection. There’s more than meets the eye; behind a colourful, playful design is a truly sustainable fabric.